The Restaurants
There are 123 Buon Ricordo restaurants. 109 are in Italy and 14 abroad (Austria, Luxemburg, China, Japan).
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Abruzzo
Among all the Adriatic coast regions Abruzzo is the one where there is the biggest difference between the coastal plain and the Apennine mountains.
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Emilia Romagna
Emilia Romagna is an outstanding region in gastronomic terms, so it is hardly surprising that in 1891 it gave the world that majestic tome by Pellegrino Artusi «The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well». Bologna is sometimes called “the city of learning”, referring to its ancient university, but it is also known as ‘Bologna the fat’ because of its equally ancient reputation for enjoying good food. Dishes cooked «alla Bolognese» are evocative of richly-flavoured, succulent delights, but the culinary heritage of the whole region stretches well beyond the city walls.
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Basilicata
Maratea is the gateway to Basilicata, a region dominated by the peaks of the Lucanian Dolomites and the woods of the Vulture and Pollino areas, against the backdrop of the Ionian Sea. You can climb different heights to try different cheeses: to Filiano for the Pecorino; to Moliterno for the Canestrato; and Pollino for the Caciocavallo Podolico. The same goes for the Lucanica, the ultimate sausage, whose stronghold is in Latronico, or for the Soppressata from Lagonegro and Lauria. Then you can wend your way from valley to valley, land of grain and olives, wonderful Sarconi beans and Senise peppers. The Murgia Materana introduces Puglia and an even more Mediterranean scenario.
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Calabria
Calabria has 700 kilometres of parallel back-to-back coastline and mountains that rear up to the heights of the Pollino, Sila and Aspromonte massifs, which gives it an unusual range of products typical of a warm climate, such as limes, almost side by side with products typical of cooler mountainous climes.
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Friuli Venezia Giulia
Many are familiar with this Italian region through books by Carlo Sgorlon and Pier Paolo Pasolini, whose pages often wander through the land where they grew up with passionate longing. A land, as Guido Piovene wrote, that is a little microcosm in its infinite variety. Friuli Venezia Giulia is geographically eclectic, with its plains and mountains divided by vine-bearing hills and a sea that had bought it the riches of the East along its Levantine trading routes.
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Lazio
“Rome, the capital of modern civilisation, has the world’s most plebeian cooking. Not that it is bad or insipid. Roman cuisine is aggressive, colourful and bursting with flavour. No, it is merely rustic. When imperial, papal, or diplomatic Rome wants to eat well they flock to the Jewish Ghetto and the back lanes of the urban proletariat.” These are the opening lines to a work in praise of the humble trattoria written in 1935 by Paolo Monelli, alias «The Wandering Gourmand», as he entitled his book on his journey around the culinary delights of Italy.
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Liguria
That Mario Soldati, Piedmontese by birth and gourmet traveller ante litteram, chose Liguria to retire to is no accident. “A strong, austere land...”, mused Montale, but also a “comely land”, according to Cardarelli, Liguria is unique, a 250 km long stretch of mountains running parallel to the sea. A single glance embraces the sea teeming with fish and the steep coast where man has patiently laboured to create terraces to plant olives and vines, while inland the scene is surprisingly lush, with olive groves giving way to chestnuts and animal husbandry.
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Lombardy
The pleasures of food in Lombardy have frequently loomed large in Italian literature, from accounts of Renaissance banquets written by Teofilo Folengo, alias Merlin Cocai, in dog Latin, to more recent effusions by modern authors: one example is Carlo Emilio Gadda, with his delicious recipe for Milanese risotto, then there was Orio Vergani, founder of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina and one of the prime movers behind the Buon Ricordo association; Gianni Brera, the well-known sports’ journalist with a penchant for fine dining; Luigi Veronelli, the unforgettable gourmet philosopher, always so ahead of his time.
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The Marche
Hills are the symbol of the Marche. Endless rolling hills scored by parallel valleys alternating yellow wheat and the green of the olive groves and vineyards, against the turquoise backdrop of the Adriatic sea, dotted with towns and villages eager to welcome gourmets with their customary hospitality. The coastline is a long ribbon of sand broken only by the Conero cliffs, fringing a sea rich in oily fish and clams.
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Piedmont
The Piedmontese may seem austere, but once they tuck into a meal they can give even the hardiest gourmand a run for their money. The history books may not actually mention it, but it is well-known that Bella Rosin, mistress to King Victor Emmanuel II, often found her way to the royal heart through the royal stomach. After all, the future Countess of Mirafiori and Fontanafredda could rely on the extraordinary range of products from her native Piedmont and native wisdom when it came to home cooking; a wisdom that becomes sublime when transposed to the homes of the nobility.
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